INSUBCONTINENT EXCLUSIVE:
KATHMANDU, JUNE 16Three Nepali climbers have successfully made the first ascent of Patrasi Peak, situated in the
remote region of Jumla in far-western Nepal.Vinayak Jaya Malla, Pasang Rinzee Sherpa, and Pasang Kami Sherpa scaled the 6,450-meter peak on
June 12.Under the "Light and Fast" project, the trio embarked on their expedition on June 3, starting their journey from Kathmandu
They took a flight to Nepalgunj the same day and then traveled to Jumla before reaching the base camp of Patrasi Peak.
Photo Courtesy: Pasang Rinzee
The ascent began on June 10, with the
climbers setting their first camp at 5,700 meters
On June 11, they established their second camp at 6,000 meters
The following day, they reached the summit and returned to their second camp before descending to the base camp on the fourth day,
completing their round-trip in just four days."The expedition faced numerous challenges, including rough weather, heavy snowfall, and loose
rocks," Malla said while adding that despite these obstacles, they persevered, demonstrating their skill and resilience on this untapped
mountain."The climb was tough and technical, different from the fixed rope climbing we are used to
This kind of technical climbing brings the real joy of mountaineering," Malla said.
Photo
Courtesy: Pasang Rinzee
Taking to social media, the trio shared, "Carrying only essential gear, we embarked on
this expedition with three main objectives: to make the first ascent of Patrasi, to promote alpinism and sustainable mountaineering in our
home country, and to highlight the beauty of far-west Nepal."The expedition was notable for being the first team from Nepal to receive a
grant from the prestigious Mount Everest Foundation (MEF), based in the UK
The MEF grant, which was previously available only to climbers from the UK and the Netherlands, has been open to Nepali climbers since 2023
Malla, an IFMGA certified mountain guide, along with Rinzee and Kami, both IFMGA aspirant guides, applied for and were awarded the grant,
which facilitated their ambitious ascent.Since its inception in 1955, the MEF has provided funds to over 2,000 expeditions in remote
locations and to scientists researching high-altitude medicine, glaciology and climate change.
Photo Courtesy: Pasang Rinzee
All three climbers have extensive experience of mountaineering both in Nepal and
Vinayak Jaya Malla has summited Everest 4 times and led successful expeditions on Lhotse, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam
He is also a Mountain Leader Instructor, Examiner, and trained in Helicopter Long Line Rescue.#13;Pasang Kami Sherpa, with 10 Everest
summits, and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa, with 2 Everest summits, are highly experienced guides.
"We have known each other for a long time, so when
the opportunity arose to experience something different, we took it," Malla said.The climbers, who have extensive experience on peaks such
as Everest, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam, sought a different kind of adventure with Patrasi Peak
They aimed to experience the true essence of Nepal, away from the commercialized and tourist-heavy regions like Khumbu
Malla highlighted the thrill of climbing in a remote area without external disturbances, noting the unique experience of being out of
cellular connectivity for eight days.He also added that western Nepal offers real possibilities for sustainable mountain climbing, tourism,
and livelihood due to its remote and untouched peaks.
Photo Courtesy: Pasang Rinzee
Following this successful expedition, Malla is scheduled to travel to China to train mountain aspirants Under IFMGA program,
continuing his dedication to mountaineering and training while Pasang Kami Sherpa and Pasang Rinzee Sherpa will continue their guide
services in Nepal and abroad.
This article first appeared/also appeared in https://thehimalayantimes.com
